In the world of Romanian wine, the last evening of September has, by now, become a tradition reserved for the Stoica family and the Avincis wines. This year, at the meeting between Avincis and critics, journalists, promoters, or simply wine lovers, two new wines were presented for the first time: Alutus Primus 2022 and Merlot 2022. The host, just like last year, was Le Bistrot Francais, a welcoming venue and a provider of well-matched delights.
Alutus Primus 2022
The news is that Alutus Primus 2022 has “separated,” at least on some labels, from Cuvee Valerius, under which the first two editions were presented. The explanation is simple: Cuvee Valerius Alutus Primus 2020 was a wine born from just half a hectare of vineyard, the result of the very first experiment with this variety, and the edition was limited to about 2,200 bottles.
Since the results were promising, grafting on Cabernet rootstock continued, and Alutus now covers a total of 4.5 hectares. For this edition, as well as for future ones, Cuvee Valerius Alutus Primus will represent the limited edition of this variety, in the same (small) number of bottles, reserved for tastings at the winery and a handful of top restaurants and shops, while Alutus Primus will enjoy a slightly wider circulation.
An Excellent Merlot 2022
Merlot is a variety that had not been “published” in the Avincis range since 2016, a decision that was more influenced by blending needs (including the much-appreciated Cuvee Grandiflora) and the relatively limited available quantity. It is well known that the banks of the Olt River provide an excellent terroir for red wines, and Merlot has always performed very well in Drăgășani…Merlot 2022 is still young, but already well-rounded, playful, friendly, full of fruit—a good companion both for food and for long conversations. Delicious.
Sauvignon Blanc 2024 – A “Dictionary” Example
However, despite the fact that Merlot and Alutus were meant to steal the spotlight of the evening, the favorite of all present turned out to be, without any warning, the Sauvignon Blanc 2024. A wine that almost didn’t exist—the harvest was severely damaged by hail, and the grapes that survived had to endure one of the driest years in recent memory.The result, however, is a wine of elegance that is hard to put into words.
The typical notes of fresh grass, green pepper, and elderflower are present, but subtle, masked by aromas of well-ripened orchard fruits with a slightly sweet touch. The taste, almost in contrast, has citrus accents highlighted by high, refreshing acidity that perfectly balances the rounder notes.
A wine in the fine French tradition, and an outstanding example of the quality Romanian wines can achieve. Memorable, worth keeping – too bad there’s so little of it…
Bubbles, Gib Mihăiescu, Life in Pink, and Poetry
Among the three stars of the evening, some well-known wines also made their way in. And yet, they were just as appreciated. The sparkling wine from Crâmpoșie, crafted using the traditional method, welcomed the guests at Le Bistrot Francais. The perfectly balanced, lively Rosé Cuvee Alexis offered Andreea Stoica the occasion to remind the participants that the differences between wines are like the differences between people – and too rarely are they comparable.
Meanwhile, Cuvee Grandiflora, which closed the evening, was not only a wonderful wine but also a tribute to Gib Mihăiescu, the writer who immortalized the Grandiflora terrace (named after the climbing rose variety that adorned it) and whose small piece of vineyard, after an adventurous journey, eventually became part of Avincis’s estate. “Today, Gib Mihăiescu is, in a way, part of our family,” says Cristiana Stoica – and, as we tasted, we could only agree.
Adding to all this was the ritual of Professor Valeriu Stoica, faithfully respected not only during these annual gatherings but also during visits to the winery – every wine is accompanied by a poem.
The author chosen for this year was Radu Stanca and, beyond stories of glory, palaces, wines, friendships, and love, we were moved by how many layers of meaning and depth could hide within a seemingly simple poem – Archimedes and the Soldier. A poem that, fittingly, closed the evening, leaving behind a moment for reflection.
A Lesson in Pairing
The very fact that Le Bistrot Francais is part of Relais Châteaux, the association of the world’s most renowned gourmet destinations, is reason enough to visit – if you haven’t already.
For this special evening, it is hard to imagine a more inspired tasting menu.
– The tomato tart challenged the Sauvignon Blanc, complemented it with fresh herbs, and was gently calmed by frozen melon bubbles.
– With Rosé Cuvee Alexis, horseradish ice cream transformed the red tuna ceviche into a Wagnerian overture.
– The anchovy sauce accompanying the lamb tenderloin took on new dimensions through almonds and crunchy touches. Great with Merlot.
– Ris de veau (veal sweetbreads) served with Alutus was a delicacy perfectly enhanced by the bittersweet combination of passion fruit and Angostura.
– As for the hazelnut ice cream at the end… the coffee foam and perfectly tempered chocolate beautifully emphasized the depths of Cuvee Grandiflora.
The Avincis Lesson About Wine
There was much talk about wine, and quite a lot about poetry. People who rarely meet but have known each other for years interacted as if they had seen each other only the day before. With every glass of wine and every dish served, smiles blossomed, conversations grew livelier, and the atmosphere turned into that of a family gathering – or at least of a circle of people united by the same passion.
As each person expressed their opinion about one wine or another (yes, Professor Stoica does “call on” his guests, classroom-style), one truth became clear, until Andreea Stoica summed it up perfectly: wine never tastes the same in different company.
Part of the joy of wine lies in the joy of sharing, which in turn depends on the person across the table from you.
So, dear wine lovers – present or future – share good wines with those who deserve them and who deserve you!
