In the 30 years that have passed since Romanian wine began, timidly and with small steps, to reinvent itself, we have all had the pleasure of witnessing the rediscovery and reinterpretation of native grape varieties. The always surprising Fetească Neagră, the delicate Fetească Albă, the well-rounded and expressive Fetească Regală, and more recently, a Negru de Drăgășani in constant evolution, have conquered the hearts of many consumers.
Then came the turn of grapes once known mainly for producing light, simple wines to prove their strength and expressiveness – Crâmpoșie, Zghihară, Șarbă, and even Mustoasă de Măderat, on occasion. And today, another variety takes an important step forward – Galbenă de Odobești, a long-ignored symbol of the Vrancea region, which is now going through a period of rebirth and reinvention.
Is Galbenă de Odobești Still a Grape for High Yields, Simple Wines
During the centralized economy, Galbenă de Odobești was planted and exploited intensively due to its ability to produce very large quantities of grapes – up to 20 tons per hectare. Naturally, this also came with a downside: the wines were rather simple, “one-dimensional” in aroma – what some consumers might call “spritzer wines.” But they were affordable, and their large production made them easily available on the market.
Today, when everyone is more interested in quality rather than quantity, through more radical vineyard work and the help of modern technology, Galbenă de Odobești reveals great potential for producing quality wines. And the promise from
Galbena de Odobești „Beciul Domnesc”
Within the Beciul Domnesc range, there is a dry wine version with an excellent quality-to-price ratio. It has a straw-yellow color with golden highlights, elegant and slightly discreet aromas of hay, orchard fruits, and white flowers, with citrus tones and faint tropical hints of mango and pineapple.
On the palate, with an alcohol level of just 12.5%, it is excellently balanced – slightly green and dominated by floral notes when very cold (below 10°C), then revealing juicy fruits, grape berries, and sweet citrus at the forefront, well supported by lively acidity as it reaches the ideal temperature (12°C). The finish is medium, dominated by orchard fruit and persistent citrus accents.
Galbenă de Odobești, a Vigorous Variety
The Beciul Domnesc company owns a total of 23 hectares of Galbenă de Odobești, some 30% of Romania’s total surface under this varierty. This year, after last year’s severe drought, the harvest was somewhat smaller. However, the restructuring of the pruning system has been completed, which will ensure consistent quality across all grapes in the coming years.
Despite its reputation as a “reliable grape” that produces abundantly and consistently, Galbenă de Odobești is actually quite a sensitive variety. Its thin skin makes it vulnerable to vine diseases, and it accumulates sugars slowly and ripens late, increasing the risk of exposure to autumn rains and subsequent mold attacks.
Moreover, it has vigorous growth and dense foliage – which cannot be removed, as the grapes risk sunburn. “We’ve had many consecutive days with temperatures over 35°C, and in places where we had to remove a few leaves, the grapes from the first two buds were risking to become dehydrated and burnt,” says Bogdan Cotea, Director of Viticulture at Beciul Domnesc.
Galbenă de Odobești – A Grape for the Next Generation
“This year, although we had fewer grapes, we had a few thrills regarding the end-result. Galbenă reached 190 grams of sugars when other varieties, with the same slow or even slower accumulation, were already at 210. In the end, the 2025 Galbenă de Odobești harvest reached an average of 215 grams of sugars, exactly what is needed for a dry wine of 12–12.5% alcohol by volume”, says Bogdan Cotea.
For a market crowded with wines exceeding 14% alcohol, and for a new generation that prefers lighter, less alcoholic beverages, this represents an excellent opportunity for the future.
Is Galbenă de Odobești the Same as Zghihară?
In the VIVC catalog, the largest “DNA library” dedicated to grape varieties, Galbenă de Odobești appears listed as a synonym of Zghihară de Huși. It may seem strange, but it’s explainable – the two varieties may have originated from the same source long ago and, since the vine is prone to genetic mutations, they likely diverged over time.
“There are certainly differences, both in the fruit and the leaf, as well as in the wine obtained from them. The Galbenă de Odobești leaf is fuller, which makes it very sought after for sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls), while the Zghihară leaf is more serrated. The grapes don’t taste the same – Galbenă’s berries are resembling Plăvaie in appearance.
Wines from Zghihară have much higher acidity, while Galbenă de Odobești is rounder and smoother. In any case, what we have in the vineyard is the clone developed by the Odobești Research Station, certified in the 1980s,” explains Bogdan Cotea.
Galbenă de Odobești Rediscovered
This is also confirmed by Constantin Bîlici, winemaking director at Beciul Domnesc:
“We’ve kept, mainly as a reference, a small surface under Zghihară, and there’s a clear difference between the two, even though they share some similarities – both accumulate sugars slowly, and the grape size is similar.
But Zghihară has much higher acidity, something Galbenă lacks. Depending on the harvest time, Galbenă de Odobești has an acidity between 4.5 and 6%, which makes it a real challenge to leave it longer on the vine, in order to accumulate more sugars.”
In the winery, however, Galbenă de Odobești behaves beautifully. With yields of 8–10 tons per hectare, harvested by hand, the wine ferments exclusively with basic, natural yeasts. Being a semi-aromatic variety, the winemaker’s goal is to preserve the pure, unaltered expression of the grape and the way Vrancea’s terroir highlights its potential.
“We wanted a wine for any occasion – light, uncomplicated, meant for enjoyment. The kind of wine that fits anywhere, anytime – after a long day or over lunch with friends, especially in spring and summer,” says Constantin Bîlici.
Conclusion
So, we have a new variety to watch closely in the near future. Taste it in all confidence, in any season – and if you visit the Beciul Domnesc monument, know that they also have some old bottles of Galbenă de Odobești, which fully prove that this variety truly deserves more attention!
